E100 Alignment Notes + Stuff

John H. Bryant <bjohnorcas@...>


Sorry, I've been outta town and then weekend house guests have thrown me way behind in e-mail.  I have no idea what the problem is with speaker audio on your E-100.... beats me.  On dealing with the ferrite loopstick and its coil, Gary DeBock and I approach things just a bit differently.  We both use No.11 blades in Exacto knives. Gary is generally able to remove enough wax by careful scraping, with the bar in place, to loosen the coil and peak it up on 600... )and yes, you can use any weak station in the 550 to 700 kHz. area... the closer to the standard 600, the better, but its pretty forgiving.)

The difference between Gary's approach and mine is that I always first prise the bar out of its retainer clips..  I don't unsolder the wires, just prise the bar out of its clips and lay it atop the circuit board.  The bar is held in the clips with just a bit of some brown glue similar to strong rubber cement.  I remove as much of that as is easily possible and then carefully work the bar up and out with the Exacto. I just find it easier to free up that coil if I have more room to work.  Usually, all you need do is remove the surface wax and give the coil a firm push with a small blunt object and its free. However, on one of my E100s the wax pot must have been turned up on high and the wax was too fluid.... It ran clear under the length of the coil on one side and about half way on the other.... between the coil and the surface of the bar.  With the bar lifted up where I could really get at it, I took the Exacto blade out of the handle, held it flat against the surface of the bar and slowly forced it under the coil.  That eventually freed things up.

By the way, the buttons are pretty well marked on the circuit board, so once you get the batteries back in your naked E100, its pretty easy to turn it on and change the frequencies during alignment.

Hope this helps, Richard!

John B.
Orcas Island, WA, USA
Rcvrs: WiNRADiO 313e, Eton e1, Ultralights
Antennas: Two 70' x 100' Conti Super Loops, West and Northwest

At 03:51 PM 7/14/2008 +0000, you wrote:

I don't think I'll have any difficulty aligning the E100. I peeked
inside and it's less daunting than the Grundig Satellit 500 I'm
currently working on. Tecsun did a good job designing the little

I do have questions however. What's the best way to remove the excess
wax holding the movable coil on the ferrite rod? I'm guessing it's
scraped away with something like an Exacto knife. Is that correct?

Since I don't have an audible daytime station on 600 kHz, is it all
right to use either 590 or 610?

If I goof up, I have a backup E100 available. From the outside it
appears to be from a different (later) production run. Already the
sound through the speaker of the first E100 has become distorted. I
have no idea how to fix that problem. Luckily, the audio is OK
through headphones.

Thanks all.

Richard Allen
DXing since 1960.


Thanks John, that helps.

Richard Allen,
DXing since 1960.

Gary DeBock

Hello Richard,
     There are a couple of issues related to the stock E100 loopstick, which adversely affect low-band performance.  First of all, the folded SW whip antenna runs parallel to the loopstick with very little separation, causing a significant AM signal loss whenever the whip antenna is folded down.  Simply moving the whip antenna into a vertical position usually improves AM sensitivity (or better yet, remove it completely if you don't need the SW or FM capabilities).
     Secondly, the thin, flat design of the E100 loopstick is extremely skimpy on ferrite, making low-band reception modest at best.  I have aligned about 7 E100's, and none of them ever came close to the SRF-T615 in low-band sensitivity.  The E100 stock loopstick just doesn't have enough ferrite to do the job on low-band DX (although it is usually an outstanding performer on high band).
     Serious hot-rodders have obtained booming results by replacing the skimpy stock loopstick with an Amidon 7.5" x .5" ferrite bar, containing a single "sliding coil" peaking system.  This simple antenna has proven sensitive enough to receive multiple AM stations in Australia and New Zealand recently.
                                                                                            73,  Gary 

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I did an alignment on my E100.

Following John and Gary's article, disassembly/assembly of the E100
was simple. Removing the wax and glue from the antenna in my example
was much easier than I thought it would be. I did find it necessary to
secure the batteries with a strip of Scotch tape during alignment.
Otherwise they kept popping out.

There was little improvement on the lower end of the band following
alignment. In that portion of the band, my E100 example is still not
near as sensitive as the SRF-39FP or SRF-T615. Leaving the antenna
attached all I could get was a barely audible signal from KXSP-590 (5
kW/563 km.). However, when I unclipped the antenna and separated it
about 1.25 cm. away from the circuit board KXSP became readable. I
imagine it would be even better if the distance was increased further.

Now if I can figure out how to reassemble my old Grundig Satellit 500!

Good DX.

Richard Allen,
DXing since 1960.


When I mentioned E100 sensitivity improved when the antenna was moved
away from the receiver, I was referring to the ferrite rod not the
whip. I had already dispensed with the whip. I'm sorry for any

It appears the receiver's sensitivity can be improved by simply
removing the ferrite rod antenna to the top of the case. It should be
possible to move it there without clipping the wires, passing them
through a small hole. I definitely observed an improvement when it
was separated from the circuit board. I imagine using better ferrite
material would result in improved sensitvity. But then it might mean
an increase in side-band slop from local stations.

This morning, I compared the aligned receiver with a newer factory
aligned E100. The one I aligned was a tad better throughout the band.

Richard Allen,
DXing since 1960.