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Alignment Instructions for the Sony SRF-59 Analog Radio Family

Gary DeBock
 

Hello All,

The Sony SRF-59 was the radio that kicked off the original Ultralight
Radio boom in late 2007, and this model's popular variants (the
SRF-39FP "Prison Radio," the SRF-29, SRF-39 and SRF-49) have also
provided a lot of exciting DX for our members. The idea that a $16
portable radio was capable of receiving multiple TP stations across the
Pacific (594-JOAK, 747-JOIB and 972-HLCA) was enough to cause a
stampede of SRF-59 buyers to arise in December of 2007, depleting even
the stock of sellers like Amazon.com.

Unfortunately the SRF-59's DXing performance proved to be directly
related to its AM-RF alignment, which was rarely optimum. Sony's
Chinese factories were simply cutting too many corners in peaking the
AM sensitivity on this popular model, and North American DXers were
paying the price. After performing many free SRF-59 AM alignments for
Ultralightdx members I wrote up detailed procedures for AM alignment of
this radio, and posted them in January of 2008. The procedures are also
applicable for the SRF-39FP and other members of this analog family,
although the plastic, movable dial pointers in various models differ
somewhat. For those with confidence in performing the AM alignment
procedure (along with good eyesight and steady nerves) the procedures
are pasted below. Thanks to Mr. Gil of Phoeniz, AZ, who recently
aligned his SRF-39 using these procedures, and reminded me of the link
(while enjoying a great boost in his radio's AM sensitivity). From
January of 2008
(http://www.mail-archive.com/irca@hard-core-dx.com/msg21040.html ) the
following procedures are reprinted:

Hello All,

The recent availability of the Sony SRF-PSY03 Service Manual
(which has
circuitry identical to that of the SRF-59) has given us the ability to
turn
total turkey units into screaming DX birds of prey!

After performing seven of these full alignments, and seeing all
seven
units operating at peak sensitivity and DX effectiveness, it is
certain to me
that the procedure is worth the somewhat tedious necessity of
disassembly and
reassembly of the tiny little radio. Unfortunately, however, this
process
does require good eyesight, patience, steady nerves, and confidence.
The
SRF-59 is not a Heathkit, and was certainly not designed for
user-friendly
disassembly, or reassembly. Understand that despite these simplified
instructions, this little unit is still quite capable of sending
beginners to
the shrink.
Proceed at your own risk!

1) Turn off radio. Remove belt clip, headphones and battery.
2) Turn AM-FM switch to AM.
3) Without forcing, tune dial needle to far left stop (530).
4) Carefully note the exact position of the dial needle at this point.
(This is EXTREMELY important for proper dial reassembly!)
5) Remove the two screws from back panel. This will accomplish
absolutely nothing in making the panels separate.
6) Repeat to yourself, "This radio only cost 15 bucks."
7) Place thumbnail in slot between front and back panels at the
bottom edge of the radio. Work thumbnail in slot repeatedly,
carefully separating the front and back panels at the bottom
edge, first at the left side, then the right. This process may
require several minutes. Do NOT use tools!
8) After bottom edge of radio has significant separation between
front and back panels, slowly work up the left and right side
of the radio, to increase the separation. Gently rock the
front panel back and forth horizontally to increase the
separation, WITHOUT any forcing. Do NOT use tools!
9) When proper separation has been achieved between front and
back panels, the top edge may be separated by gently lifting
front panel circular plastic surrounding the headphone jack,
which will complete the separation of front and back panels.
At this point, the back panel may or may not break off from
the circuit board, but it is certain that the dial needle's
plastic gear will fall out of its front panel slot, making you
think that the radio is destroyed. Repeat Step #6 above.
10) Remove back panel from circuit board, if not already removed
(simply pull apart the small spot of glue).
11) Attach battery to contact spring (negative) and clip (positive).
Tape may be helpful in keeping in the contacts in place.
12) Turn on radio (center left switch on circuit board), and plug in
headphones.
13) An RF signal generator is required to verify frequency
coverage from 520-1750 kHz. If you do not have one, at
least verify coverage from 530-1700 kHz by checking
received stations close to these border frequencies.
14) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 520 kHz,
turn the radio's tuner fully CCW, and peak L3 (the
red-slugged can close to the loop stick) with a non-
metallic (plastic or wood) flat-bladed alignment tool
to obtain loudest headphone volume of the carrier.
15) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 1750 kHz,
set the radio's tuner fully CW, turn the circuit board over,
and peak CT1 (3/4) (the upper right trimming capacitor
on the tuner) to obtain loudest headphone volume of the
carrier. This is a sensitive adjustment.
NOTE: The frequency coverage has been perfectly
set on all seven units as received from the factory, so
lack of a signal generator is not a serious problem.
16) Turn the circuit board over, and use a very small flat-
bladed screwdriver to carefully scrape away all the wax
bonding the smaller loop stick coil (the one closest to
the tuner) to the ferrite bar. Clear a slide path on both
sides of the coil at least .25 inch long, free of wax, for
the next step. Verify freedom of coil to slide either way.
17) Set RF signal generator to 600 kHz, and set radio tuner
near 600 kHz (or, if RFsignal generator is not available,
use a live WEAK signal near 600 kHz for the next step).
18) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or the weak live signal
on or near 600 kHz. Carefully slide coil along ferrite bar
with a NON-metallic (wood, plastic) probe to peak the
received signal. Perform this step repeatedly to find the
exact spot of strongest, clearest audio (NOTE: This step
is the one most important to improve factory-unit
sensitivity).
19) Secure the small coil to this spot with a piece of tape, or
small spot of woodworking glue.
20) Turn circuit board over. Set signal generator to 1400 kHz,
and set radio tuner to near 1400 ( or, if RF signal
generator is not available, use a live WEAK signal near
1400 for the next step).
21) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or live weak signal
near 1400. Carefully peak CT1 (4/4) (the upper left
trimming capacitor on the tuner) for maximum clear
audio signal.
22) Turn off radio, unplug headphones, disconnect battery.
23) Restore tuner to maximum CCW position, and reinstall
orange plastic dial linkage in front-panel slot. As viewed
from front, place dial needle in the EXACT spot noted in
Step #4 above (this is EXTREMELY important!)
24) Slowly slide circuit board headphone jack under top
edge of front panel, and very carefully work the circuit
board into position adjacent to front panel. Ensure that
battery clips do not bind.
25) Carefully check tuner for bind-free operation. If tuner
binds, or if tuner frequency does not match the dial,
the circuit board must be removed and dial linkage
repositioned for correction (this is the trickiest step
in the alignment).
26) If tuner operation is smooth and frequencies match, you
have just guaranteed yourself success in this extremely
rough alignment! Congratulate yourself repeatedly!
27) Carefully reinstall back panel by sliding top edge under
top edge of front panel, and very gently (without forcing)
snap into place, observing slots along sides and bottom.
28) Reinstall two back screws, battery, headphones, and
belt clip.
29) Turn on radio. Log tons of DX. Call yourself a champion!


73 and Good DX,

Gary DeBock

SRF-59 Tech Trio Junior Member

jaypolicow@snet.net <jaypolicow@...>
 

Gary,

Thanks for posting this...I've got to tear into mine now! It seems to work quite well but I like to be sure all my radios are at their very best when possible.

Jay

http://radiojayallen.com

--- In ultralightdx@..., D1028Gary@... wrote:

Hello All,

The Sony SRF-59 was the radio that kicked off the original Ultralight
Radio boom in late 2007, and this model's popular variants (the
SRF-39FP "Prison Radio," the SRF-29, SRF-39 and SRF-49) have also
provided a lot of exciting DX for our members. The idea that a $16
portable radio was capable of receiving multiple TP stations across the
Pacific (594-JOAK, 747-JOIB and 972-HLCA) was enough to cause a
stampede of SRF-59 buyers to arise in December of 2007, depleting even
the stock of sellers like Amazon.com.

Unfortunately the SRF-59's DXing performance proved to be directly
related to its AM-RF alignment, which was rarely optimum. Sony's
Chinese factories were simply cutting too many corners in peaking the
AM sensitivity on this popular model, and North American DXers were
paying the price. After performing many free SRF-59 AM alignments for
Ultralightdx members I wrote up detailed procedures for AM alignment of
this radio, and posted them in January of 2008. The procedures are also
applicable for the SRF-39FP and other members of this analog family,
although the plastic, movable dial pointers in various models differ
somewhat. For those with confidence in performing the AM alignment
procedure (along with good eyesight and steady nerves) the procedures
are pasted below. Thanks to Mr. Gil of Phoeniz, AZ, who recently
aligned his SRF-39 using these procedures, and reminded me of the link
(while enjoying a great boost in his radio's AM sensitivity). From
January of 2008
(http://www.mail-archive.com/irca@.../msg21040.html ) the
following procedures are reprinted:

Hello All,

The recent availability of the Sony SRF-PSY03 Service Manual
(which has
circuitry identical to that of the SRF-59) has given us the ability to
turn
total turkey units into screaming DX birds of prey!

After performing seven of these full alignments, and seeing all
seven
units operating at peak sensitivity and DX effectiveness, it is
certain to me
that the procedure is worth the somewhat tedious necessity of
disassembly and
reassembly of the tiny little radio. Unfortunately, however, this
process
does require good eyesight, patience, steady nerves, and confidence.
The
SRF-59 is not a Heathkit, and was certainly not designed for
user-friendly
disassembly, or reassembly. Understand that despite these simplified
instructions, this little unit is still quite capable of sending
beginners to
the shrink.
Proceed at your own risk!

1) Turn off radio. Remove belt clip, headphones and battery.
2) Turn AM-FM switch to AM.
3) Without forcing, tune dial needle to far left stop (530).
4) Carefully note the exact position of the dial needle at this point.
(This is EXTREMELY important for proper dial reassembly!)
5) Remove the two screws from back panel. This will accomplish
absolutely nothing in making the panels separate.
6) Repeat to yourself, "This radio only cost 15 bucks."
7) Place thumbnail in slot between front and back panels at the
bottom edge of the radio. Work thumbnail in slot repeatedly,
carefully separating the front and back panels at the bottom
edge, first at the left side, then the right. This process may
require several minutes. Do NOT use tools!
8) After bottom edge of radio has significant separation between
front and back panels, slowly work up the left and right side
of the radio, to increase the separation. Gently rock the
front panel back and forth horizontally to increase the
separation, WITHOUT any forcing. Do NOT use tools!
9) When proper separation has been achieved between front and
back panels, the top edge may be separated by gently lifting
front panel circular plastic surrounding the headphone jack,
which will complete the separation of front and back panels.
At this point, the back panel may or may not break off from
the circuit board, but it is certain that the dial needle's
plastic gear will fall out of its front panel slot, making you
think that the radio is destroyed. Repeat Step #6 above.
10) Remove back panel from circuit board, if not already removed
(simply pull apart the small spot of glue).
11) Attach battery to contact spring (negative) and clip (positive).
Tape may be helpful in keeping in the contacts in place.
12) Turn on radio (center left switch on circuit board), and plug in
headphones.
13) An RF signal generator is required to verify frequency
coverage from 520-1750 kHz. If you do not have one, at
least verify coverage from 530-1700 kHz by checking
received stations close to these border frequencies.
14) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 520 kHz,
turn the radio's tuner fully CCW, and peak L3 (the
red-slugged can close to the loop stick) with a non-
metallic (plastic or wood) flat-bladed alignment tool
to obtain loudest headphone volume of the carrier.
15) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 1750 kHz,
set the radio's tuner fully CW, turn the circuit board over,
and peak CT1 (3/4) (the upper right trimming capacitor
on the tuner) to obtain loudest headphone volume of the
carrier. This is a sensitive adjustment.
NOTE: The frequency coverage has been perfectly
set on all seven units as received from the factory, so
lack of a signal generator is not a serious problem.
16) Turn the circuit board over, and use a very small flat-
bladed screwdriver to carefully scrape away all the wax
bonding the smaller loop stick coil (the one closest to
the tuner) to the ferrite bar. Clear a slide path on both
sides of the coil at least .25 inch long, free of wax, for
the next step. Verify freedom of coil to slide either way.
17) Set RF signal generator to 600 kHz, and set radio tuner
near 600 kHz (or, if RFsignal generator is not available,
use a live WEAK signal near 600 kHz for the next step).
18) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or the weak live signal
on or near 600 kHz. Carefully slide coil along ferrite bar
with a NON-metallic (wood, plastic) probe to peak the
received signal. Perform this step repeatedly to find the
exact spot of strongest, clearest audio (NOTE: This step
is the one most important to improve factory-unit
sensitivity).
19) Secure the small coil to this spot with a piece of tape, or
small spot of woodworking glue.
20) Turn circuit board over. Set signal generator to 1400 kHz,
and set radio tuner to near 1400 ( or, if RF signal
generator is not available, use a live WEAK signal near
1400 for the next step).
21) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or live weak signal
near 1400. Carefully peak CT1 (4/4) (the upper left
trimming capacitor on the tuner) for maximum clear
audio signal.
22) Turn off radio, unplug headphones, disconnect battery.
23) Restore tuner to maximum CCW position, and reinstall
orange plastic dial linkage in front-panel slot. As viewed
from front, place dial needle in the EXACT spot noted in
Step #4 above (this is EXTREMELY important!)
24) Slowly slide circuit board headphone jack under top
edge of front panel, and very carefully work the circuit
board into position adjacent to front panel. Ensure that
battery clips do not bind.
25) Carefully check tuner for bind-free operation. If tuner
binds, or if tuner frequency does not match the dial,
the circuit board must be removed and dial linkage
repositioned for correction (this is the trickiest step
in the alignment).
26) If tuner operation is smooth and frequencies match, you
have just guaranteed yourself success in this extremely
rough alignment! Congratulate yourself repeatedly!
27) Carefully reinstall back panel by sliding top edge under
top edge of front panel, and very gently (without forcing)
snap into place, observing slots along sides and bottom.
28) Reinstall two back screws, battery, headphones, and
belt clip.
29) Turn on radio. Log tons of DX. Call yourself a champion!


73 and Good DX,

Gary DeBock

SRF-59 Tech Trio Junior Member

Neil Goldstein
 

Gary, 

Thank you!  

I just finished trying this on my SRF-59.  I needed a small bit of tweak at both ends, and now is performing even better than before.

I wanted to add a couple of pointers to the tutorial if I may:

-- On first try at re-assembly my tuner was binding a bit.  As I pulled it apart again and examined the pointer assembly, I noticed at first what appeared to be a missing tooth about mid-point in the toothed section of the pointer.  Then, I noticed that the tuning wheel/gear has one double-sized tooth.  This is the reason why they bind if it is not exactly right.  The large tooth on the gear MUST land in the extra space on the pointer where it appears to have a missing tooth.  

Using a bright worklight (and making sure I had my reading glasses on) I popped the headphone jack in first, leaving the tuning gear slightly elevated so I could still see the toothed section of the pointer.  using a small probe I set the pointer and gear so that the "missing" tooth was aligned with the larger tooth on the gear, and then carefully pressed the assembly together.  It worked for me on the second try this way.  When you get it right, you can "feel" it, it goes right in.

--Also, when you scrape the wax, be very careful.  Sony left a certain amount of play in the wires, and one of mine was embedded in the wax I needed to remove.  

Thanks again...   a noticeable improvement with the one I have.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 6:11 AM, jaypolicow@... <jaypolicow@...> wrote:

 

Gary,

Thanks for posting this...I've got to tear into mine now! It seems to work quite well but I like to be sure all my radios are at their very best when possible.

Jay

http://radiojayallen.com



--- In ultralightdx@..., D1028Gary@... wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> The Sony SRF-59 was the radio that kicked off the original Ultralight
> Radio boom in late 2007, and this model's popular variants (the
> SRF-39FP "Prison Radio," the SRF-29, SRF-39 and SRF-49) have also
> provided a lot of exciting DX for our members. The idea that a $16
> portable radio was capable of receiving multiple TP stations across the
> Pacific (594-JOAK, 747-JOIB and 972-HLCA) was enough to cause a
> stampede of SRF-59 buyers to arise in December of 2007, depleting even
> the stock of sellers like Amazon.com.
>
> Unfortunately the SRF-59's DXing performance proved to be directly
> related to its AM-RF alignment, which was rarely optimum. Sony's
> Chinese factories were simply cutting too many corners in peaking the
> AM sensitivity on this popular model, and North American DXers were
> paying the price. After performing many free SRF-59 AM alignments for
> Ultralightdx members I wrote up detailed procedures for AM alignment of
> this radio, and posted them in January of 2008. The procedures are also
> applicable for the SRF-39FP and other members of this analog family,
> although the plastic, movable dial pointers in various models differ
> somewhat. For those with confidence in performing the AM alignment
> procedure (along with good eyesight and steady nerves) the procedures
> are pasted below. Thanks to Mr. Gil of Phoeniz, AZ, who recently
> aligned his SRF-39 using these procedures, and reminded me of the link
> (while enjoying a great boost in his radio's AM sensitivity). From
> January of 2008
> (http://www.mail-archive.com/irca@.../msg21040.html ) the

> following procedures are reprinted:
>
> Hello All,
>
> The recent availability of the Sony SRF-PSY03 Service Manual
> (which has
> circuitry identical to that of the SRF-59) has given us the ability to
> turn
> total turkey units into screaming DX birds of prey!
>
> After performing seven of these full alignments, and seeing all
> seven
> units operating at peak sensitivity and DX effectiveness, it is
> certain to me
> that the procedure is worth the somewhat tedious necessity of
> disassembly and
> reassembly of the tiny little radio. Unfortunately, however, this
> process
> does require good eyesight, patience, steady nerves, and confidence.
> The
> SRF-59 is not a Heathkit, and was certainly not designed for
> user-friendly
> disassembly, or reassembly. Understand that despite these simplified
> instructions, this little unit is still quite capable of sending
> beginners to
> the shrink.
> Proceed at your own risk!
>
> 1) Turn off radio. Remove belt clip, headphones and battery.
> 2) Turn AM-FM switch to AM.
> 3) Without forcing, tune dial needle to far left stop (530).
> 4) Carefully note the exact position of the dial needle at this point.
> (This is EXTREMELY important for proper dial reassembly!)
> 5) Remove the two screws from back panel. This will accomplish
> absolutely nothing in making the panels separate.
> 6) Repeat to yourself, "This radio only cost 15 bucks."
> 7) Place thumbnail in slot between front and back panels at the
> bottom edge of the radio. Work thumbnail in slot repeatedly,
> carefully separating the front and back panels at the bottom
> edge, first at the left side, then the right. This process may
> require several minutes. Do NOT use tools!
> 8) After bottom edge of radio has significant separation between
> front and back panels, slowly work up the left and right side
> of the radio, to increase the separation. Gently rock the
> front panel back and forth horizontally to increase the
> separation, WITHOUT any forcing. Do NOT use tools!
> 9) When proper separation has been achieved between front and
> back panels, the top edge may be separated by gently lifting
> front panel circular plastic surrounding the headphone jack,
> which will complete the separation of front and back panels.
> At this point, the back panel may or may not break off from
> the circuit board, but it is certain that the dial needle's
> plastic gear will fall out of its front panel slot, making you
> think that the radio is destroyed. Repeat Step #6 above.
> 10) Remove back panel from circuit board, if not already removed
> (simply pull apart the small spot of glue).
> 11) Attach battery to contact spring (negative) and clip (positive).
> Tape may be helpful in keeping in the contacts in place.
> 12) Turn on radio (center left switch on circuit board), and plug in
> headphones.
> 13) An RF signal generator is required to verify frequency
> coverage from 520-1750 kHz. If you do not have one, at
> least verify coverage from 530-1700 kHz by checking
> received stations close to these border frequencies.
> 14) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 520 kHz,
> turn the radio's tuner fully CCW, and peak L3 (the
> red-slugged can close to the loop stick) with a non-
> metallic (plastic or wood) flat-bladed alignment tool
> to obtain loudest headphone volume of the carrier.
> 15) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 1750 kHz,
> set the radio's tuner fully CW, turn the circuit board over,
> and peak CT1 (3/4) (the upper right trimming capacitor
> on the tuner) to obtain loudest headphone volume of the
> carrier. This is a sensitive adjustment.
> NOTE: The frequency coverage has been perfectly
> set on all seven units as received from the factory, so
> lack of a signal generator is not a serious problem.
> 16) Turn the circuit board over, and use a very small flat-
> bladed screwdriver to carefully scrape away all the wax
> bonding the smaller loop stick coil (the one closest to
> the tuner) to the ferrite bar. Clear a slide path on both
> sides of the coil at least .25 inch long, free of wax, for
> the next step. Verify freedom of coil to slide either way.
> 17) Set RF signal generator to 600 kHz, and set radio tuner
> near 600 kHz (or, if RFsignal generator is not available,
> use a live WEAK signal near 600 kHz for the next step).
> 18) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or the weak live signal
> on or near 600 kHz. Carefully slide coil along ferrite bar
> with a NON-metallic (wood, plastic) probe to peak the
> received signal. Perform this step repeatedly to find the
> exact spot of strongest, clearest audio (NOTE: This step
> is the one most important to improve factory-unit
> sensitivity).
> 19) Secure the small coil to this spot with a piece of tape, or
> small spot of woodworking glue.
> 20) Turn circuit board over. Set signal generator to 1400 kHz,
> and set radio tuner to near 1400 ( or, if RF signal
> generator is not available, use a live WEAK signal near
> 1400 for the next step).
> 21) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or live weak signal
> near 1400. Carefully peak CT1 (4/4) (the upper left
> trimming capacitor on the tuner) for maximum clear
> audio signal.
> 22) Turn off radio, unplug headphones, disconnect battery.
> 23) Restore tuner to maximum CCW position, and reinstall
> orange plastic dial linkage in front-panel slot. As viewed
> from front, place dial needle in the EXACT spot noted in
> Step #4 above (this is EXTREMELY important!)
> 24) Slowly slide circuit board headphone jack under top
> edge of front panel, and very carefully work the circuit
> board into position adjacent to front panel. Ensure that
> battery clips do not bind.
> 25) Carefully check tuner for bind-free operation. If tuner
> binds, or if tuner frequency does not match the dial,
> the circuit board must be removed and dial linkage
> repositioned for correction (this is the trickiest step
> in the alignment).
> 26) If tuner operation is smooth and frequencies match, you
> have just guaranteed yourself success in this extremely
> rough alignment! Congratulate yourself repeatedly!
> 27) Carefully reinstall back panel by sliding top edge under
> top edge of front panel, and very gently (without forcing)
> snap into place, observing slots along sides and bottom.
> 28) Reinstall two back screws, battery, headphones, and
> belt clip.
> 29) Turn on radio. Log tons of DX. Call yourself a champion!
>
>
> 73 and Good DX,
>
> Gary DeBock
>
> SRF-59 Tech Trio Junior Member
>




--
Neil Goldstein
http://www.neilgoldstein.com

Gary DeBock
 

Hello Neil and Jay,

Thanks for your comments on the SRF-59 alignment instructions, and
congratulations to Neil on successfully boosting the AM sensitivity of
his SRF-59. Thanks also for the additional comments on the dial gear
re-installation, Neil.

Based on about 65 alignments that I've performed on SRF-59's for myself
and others, the alignment process typically provides a significant
boost in the SRF-59's AM sensitivity, and is well worth the effort for
those with enough confidence. About 55 out of 65 SRF-59 models had a
major boost in AM sensitivity, while the other 10 had a minor boost.
I've yet to align any SRF-59 model that was completely peaked for AM
sensitivity from the Chinese factories-- a pretty sorry comment on the
low priority given to this important procedure.

The other members of this Sony analog family typically have better
factory alignment, especially the SRF-39FP "Prison Radio." I've aligned
about 25 of these, and 10 units enjoyed a minor boost in sensitivity,
while only 3 received a major boost. The other 12 were spot-on from the
factory for maximum AM sensitivity. For the information of all
Ultralightdx members, the SRF-59 is the only member of this analog
family in which Sony uses a rather low-quality tuner component, causing
a "scratchy tuner" congenital issue to develop on the AM band after
about two years of heavy usage. This problem does not develop in the
SRF-39FP and other members of this Sony analog family, which should
operate indefinitely if properly cared for.

For those interested in weird technical projects, in 2008 I was
fascinated by the concept of replacing the SRF-39FP's midget loopstick
to make it far more sensitive than an ICF-2010 model. The
experimentation was successful, and provided a lot of experience for
current loopstick transplant projects (detailed in the file posted at
http://www.mediafire.com/?zmenm1zdmmw ).

73, Gary DeBock (in Puyallup, WA)

-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Goldstein <neilgoldstein@...>
To: ultralightdx <ultralightdx@...>
Sent: Sun, Jun 26, 2011 9:09 am
Subject: Re: [ultralightdx] Re: Alignment Instructions for the Sony
SRF-59 Analog Radio Family

 
Gary, 

Thank you!  


I just finished trying this on my SRF-59.  I needed a small bit of
tweak at both ends, and now is performing even better than before.


I wanted to add a couple of pointers to the tutorial if I may:


-- On first try at re-assembly my tuner was binding a bit.  As I pulled
it apart again and examined the pointer assembly, I noticed at first
what appeared to be a missing tooth about mid-point in the toothed
section of the pointer.  Then, I noticed that the tuning wheel/gear has
one double-sized tooth.  This is the reason why they bind if it is not
exactly right.  The large tooth on the gear MUST land in the extra
space on the pointer where it appears to have a missing tooth.  


Using a bright worklight (and making sure I had my reading glasses on)
I popped the headphone jack in first, leaving the tuning gear slightly
elevated so I could still see the toothed section of the pointer.
 using a small probe I set the pointer and gear so that the "missing"
tooth was aligned with the larger tooth on the gear, and then carefully
pressed the assembly together.  It worked for me on the second try this
way.  When you get it right, you can "feel" it, it goes right in.


--Also, when you scrape the wax, be very careful.  Sony left a certain
amount of play in the wires, and one of mine was embedded in the wax I
needed to remove.  


Thanks again...   a noticeable improvement with the one I have.
On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 6:11 AM, jaypolicow@...
<jaypolicow@...> wrote:
 
Gary,

Thanks for posting this...I've got to tear into mine now! It seems to
work quite well but I like to be sure all my radios are at their very
best when possible.

Jay

http://radiojayallen.com


--- In ultralightdx@..., D1028Gary@... wrote:

Hello All,

The Sony SRF-59 was the radio that kicked off the original
Ultralight
Radio boom in late 2007, and this model's popular variants (the
SRF-39FP "Prison Radio," the SRF-29, SRF-39 and SRF-49) have also
provided a lot of exciting DX for our members. The idea that a $16
portable radio was capable of receiving multiple TP stations
across the
Pacific (594-JOAK, 747-JOIB and 972-HLCA) was enough to cause a
stampede of SRF-59 buyers to arise in December of 2007, depleting
even
the stock of sellers like Amazon.com.

Unfortunately the SRF-59's DXing performance proved to be directly
related to its AM-RF alignment, which was rarely optimum. Sony's
Chinese factories were simply cutting too many corners in peaking
the
AM sensitivity on this popular model, and North American DXers were
paying the price. After performing many free SRF-59 AM alignments
for
Ultralightdx members I wrote up detailed procedures for AM
alignment of
this radio, and posted them in January of 2008. The procedures are
also
applicable for the SRF-39FP and other members of this analog
family,
although the plastic, movable dial pointers in various models
differ
somewhat. For those with confidence in performing the AM alignment
procedure (along with good eyesight and steady nerves) the
procedures
are pasted below. Thanks to Mr. Gil of Phoeniz, AZ, who recently
aligned his SRF-39 using these procedures, and reminded me of the
link
(while enjoying a great boost in his radio's AM sensitivity). From
January of 2008

(http://www.mail-archive.com/irca@.../msg21040.html ) the
following procedures are reprinted:

Hello All,

The recent availability of the Sony SRF-PSY03 Service Manual
(which has
circuitry identical to that of the SRF-59) has given us the
ability to
turn
&gt; total turkey units into screaming DX birds of prey!

After performing seven of these full alignments, and seeing
all
seven
&gt; units operating at peak sensitivity and DX effectiveness, it is
certain to me
that the procedure is worth the somewhat tedious necessity of
disassembly and
reassembly of the tiny little radio. Unfortunately, however, this
process
does require good eyesight, patience, steady nerves, and
confidence.
The
SRF-59 is not a Heathkit, and was certainly not designed for
user-friendly
disassembly, or reassembly. Understand that despite these
simplified
instructions, this little unit is still quite capable of sending
beginners to
the shrink.
Proceed at your own risk!

1) Turn off radio. Remove belt clip, headphones and battery.
2) Turn AM-FM switch to AM.
3) Without forcing, tune dial needle to far left stop (530).
4) Carefully note the exact position of the dial needle at this
point.
(This is EXTREMELY important for proper dial reassembly!)
5) Remove the two screws from back panel. This will accomplish
absolutely nothing in making the panels separate.
6) Repeat to yourself, "This radio only cost 15 bucks."
7) Place thumbnail in slot between front and back panels at the
bottom edge of the radio. Work thumbnail in slot
repeatedly,
carefully separating the front and back panels at the
bottom
edge, first at the left side, then the right. This
process may
require several minutes. Do NOT use tools!
8) After bottom edge of radio has significant separation between
front and back panels, slowly work up the left and right
side
of the radio, to increase the separation. Gently rock the
front panel back and forth horizontally to increase the
separation, WITHOUT any forcing. Do NOT use tools!
9) When proper separation has been achieved between front and
back panels, the top edge may be separated by gently
lifting
front panel circular plastic surrounding the headphone
jack,
which will complete the separation of front and back
panels.
At this point, the back panel may or may not break off from
the circuit board, but it is certain that the dial needle's
plastic gear will fall out of its front panel slot, making
you
think that the radio is destroyed. Repeat Step #6 above.
10) Remove back panel from circuit board, if not already removed
(simply pull apart the small spot of glue).
11) Attach battery to contact spring (negative) and clip
(positive).
Tape may be helpful in keeping in the contacts in place.
12) Turn on radio (center left switch on circuit board), and plug
in
headphones.
13) An RF signal generator is required to verify frequency
coverage from 520-1750 kHz. If you do not have one, at
least verify coverage from 530-1700 kHz by checking
received stations close to these border frequencies.
14) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 520 kHz,
turn the radio's tuner fully CCW, and peak L3 (the
red-slugged can close to the loop stick) with a non-
metallic (plastic or wood) flat-bladed alignment tool
to obtain loudest headphone volume of the carrier.
15) If an RF signal generator is available, set it to 1750 kHz,
set the radio's tuner fully CW, turn the circuit board over,
and peak CT1 (3/4) (the upper right trimming capacitor
on the tuner) to obtain loudest headphone volume of the
carrier. This is a sensitive adjustment.
NOTE: The frequency coverage has been perfectly
set on all seven units as received from the factory, so
lack of a signal generator is not a serious problem.
16) Turn the circuit board over, and use a very small flat-
bladed screwdriver to carefully scrape away all the wax
bonding the smaller loop stick coil (the one closest to
the tuner) to the ferrite bar. Clear a slide path on both
&gt; sides of the coil at least .25 inch long, free of wax, for
the next step. Verify freedom of coil to slide either way.
17) Set RF signal generator to 600 kHz, and set radio tuner
near 600 kHz (or, if RFsignal generator is not available,
use a live WEAK signal near 600 kHz for the next step).
18) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or the weak live signal
on or near 600 kHz. Carefully slide coil along ferrite bar
with a NON-metallic (wood, plastic) probe to peak the
received signal. Perform this step repeatedly to find the
exact spot of strongest, clearest audio (NOTE: This step
is the one most important to improve factory-unit
sensitivity).
19) Secure the small coil to this spot with a piece of tape, or
small spot of woodworking glue.
20) Turn circuit board over. Set signal generator to 1400 kHz,
and set radio tuner to near 1400 ( or, if RF signal
generator is not available, use a live WEAK signal near
1400 for the next step).
&gt; 21) Tune in RF signal generator signal, or live weak signal
near 1400. Carefully peak CT1 (4/4) (the upper left
trimming capacitor on the tuner) for maximum clear
audio signal.
22) Turn off radio, unplug headphones, disconnect battery.
23) Restore tuner to maximum CCW position, and reinstall
orange plastic dial linkage in front-panel slot. As viewed
from front, place dial needle in the EXACT spot noted in
Step #4 above (this is EXTREMELY important!)
24) Slowly slide circuit board headphone jack under top
edge of front panel, and very carefully work the circuit
board into position adjacent to front panel. Ensure that
battery clips do not bind.
25) Carefully check tuner for bind-free operation. If tuner
binds, or if tuner frequency does not match the dial,
the circuit board must be removed and dial linkage
repositioned for correction (this is the trickiest step
in the alignment).
26) If tuner operation is smooth and frequencies match, you
have just guaranteed yourself success in this extremely
rough alignment! Congratulate yourself repeatedly!
27) Carefully reinstall back panel by sliding top edge under
top edge of front panel, and very gently (without forcing)
snap into place, observing slots along sides and bottom.
28) Reinstall two back screws, battery, headphones, and
belt clip.
29) Turn on radio. Log tons of DX. Call yourself a champion!


73 and Good DX,

Gary DeBock

SRF-59 Tech Trio Junior Member











--
Neil Goldstein
http://www.neilgoldstein.com

R. Mark Barnett
 

If I am reading and digesting this correctly, the majority of these radios ONLY need the coil tweaked a bit... All of mine are stock and seem to work well.... and the full band is covered. I don't have a signal generator around anymore, but as stated, using a weak station works just as well. I am almost convinced to crack mine open... I have had a stroke, so it makes me think twice about attempting it. Tremors make fine re-assembly much harder. :-(

Mark Barnett   N8PGV

GET SWABBED!!! Save a Life by becoming a bone marrow donor. A child near YOU is DYING for a transplant!  http://www.dkmsamericas.org/  

Organize a Bone Marrow Donor Drive in YOUR Town or Church!


Gary DeBock
 

Hi Mark,

The SRF-59's loopstick coil (the shorter one, usually secured with wax)
is indeed the component most likely to be out of alignment, but the
1400 kHz trimming capacitor (one of the four trimmers on the tuning
capacitor) occasionally will be far out of adjustment also. This
occured in about 25% of the factory-aligned units, as I recall. In
early 2008 the SRF-59 alignment quirks could actually be traced to
serial number groups, so that certain batches of SRF-59's from the same
factory (and the same store) had the same dreadful performance.

Unfortunately the SRF-59 alignment does require steady nerves and good
eyesight, and may not be suitable for all owners to perform. The radio
is an amazing DXing bargain for the money, but user-friendly
disassembly is not its strong point.

73, Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: R. Mark Barnett <orgelkraft@...>
To: ultralightdx <ultralightdx@...>
Sent: Sun, Jun 26, 2011 2:16 pm
Subject: Re: [ultralightdx] Re: Alignment Instructions for the Sony
SRF-59 Analog Radio Family

 
If I am reading and digesting this correctly, the majority of these
radios ONLY need the coil tweaked a bit... All of mine are stock and
seem to work well.... and the full band is covered. I don't have a
signal generator around anymore, but as stated, using a weak station
works just as well. I am almost convinced to crack mine open... I have
had a stroke, so it makes me think twice about attempting it. Tremors
make fine re-assembly much harder. :-(

Mark Barnett   N8PGV


GET SWABBED!!! Save a Life by becoming a bone marrow donor. A child
near YOU is DYING for a
transplant!  http://www.dkmsamericas.org/  Organize a Bone Marrow Donor
Drive in YOUR Town or Church!

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