This sounds absurd to me. Any company can manufacture batteries if they feel like it. So there can't be counterfeit batteries, they're all "genuine". What I can say for sure is

Sorry if that wasn't clear; genuine = adjective: possessing the claimed or attributed character, quality, or origin; not counterfeit; authentic; real. In this case I don't believe there are genuine

It's the yellow one. In the XHDATA the original battery lasts about 3 ½ hours. The GTF has been working for 7 hours and is still doing well. It may not be as much as

Op 17/07/2020 om 19:49 schreef Rémy Friess: Which one of these .... Quelle des gtf? https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=GTF%2C+9900+mAh&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 Marc -- The

Le 17/07/2020 à 17:35, Dave613 a écrit : What do you mean "genuine" ? A battery is a battery. I can't figure out what a "genuine" battery is. The one I'm using

1 From what I can see on the web the highest capacity 18650 battery available is ~3500mAh, AFAIK there are no genuine 9900 or 15000 products (despite what the label might say) 2 Comparing the XHDATA

I just replaced the supplied junky 18650 with a reliable name brand. Problem solved, and no need for a brick hanging off the USB socket. Be aware also that the battery gauge on this radio is wildly

Hi! They do have a shop in the UK, look here: https://www.jaycar.co.uk/ -- The "Penguin" has arrived - and he's not going away - ever. For former Apple users: Xubuntu.org (menu's up left) For

Yes battery life is an issue with the XHDATA. I have replaced the battery with a 9900 mAh model. You might try one of these or even a 15000 mAh model. That solves the problem.

They are, essentially, the same radio and perform identically. I prefer the AR-1780 for better ergonomics and the use of standard alkaline batteries. I have had issues with battery life of the 18650

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 07:26 PM, Guy Atkins wrote: It's tough to beat the excellent "Q" of a top-notch air variable cap! Amen to that, home town brother! The reality is that when you spend some

My method has been 91% isopropyl alcohol, using a long bristle, very soft brush for working the liquid down between the vanes. I don't worry too much about washing out the bearing grease as I prefer

I will (eventually) put a large two section variable cap, with three to one gear drive, in my ultrasonic cleaner and see what happens. It was new old stock, so it isn't decades old and covered with

Thanks Jay! I don't think I ever used DeOxit without a 91-99% wash afterward because of residue. However, it seemed that DeOxit might do a better job of removing oxidation if used first. The alcohol

De-Ox-It is not the best way to clean dirty cap plates...it is a contact cleaner/enhancer designed to improve conductivity between two metal parts. I have successfully cleaned caps in vintage radios

It would be good to prevent the oxidisation in the first place. This would need a hermetically sealed environment with a desiccant but getting a device that needs manual operation into a sealed box

As far as expensive, yes DeOxit isn't cheap, but then it doesn't look like you need to buy a new capacitor at $20-$60 either and can refresh existing ones multiple times, instead of replacing. Alcohol

Hi Steve and all! I first tried DeOxit D5, with a spray alcohol rinse afterwards and lastly spray air to dry off the residue. I have also tried spray alcohol by itself, which seemed to work fine by

Now we need to find the least expensive method of cleaning variable caps not requiring (very) expensive DeOxit spray cleaner. Would cheap drugstore isopropyl alcohol work well enough? Maybe

An extremely enlightening discussion. It reminds me of customers trading in gear who handed over a box with nicotine stained fingers and you just dreaded taking the kit out. White lettering turned